A Run-In with Noah John Rondeau

Louie had tried to put a stop to Noah John Rondeau … Old Louie declared … “Sacre bleu! Louie will put an ax to who ever built ’is wigwam in my territory.”

The Hermit and Us – Our Adirondack Adventures with Noah John Rondeau

A Run-In with

Noah John Rondeau

An excerpt from “The Hermit and Us”, Starting on page 231

Ted figured the humble log hovel over the outlet of Blueberry Pond might have belonged to trappers or meat or hide hunters. That region had once been a real wilderness. Without doubt the country had teemed with bear, deer, lynx, fisher, otter, beaver, fox, marten, other fur-bearers and perhaps some moose. That would have been in the glory days of the hide and meat hunters. Lumber companies had their own hunters to supply the camps with wild meat. Hide hunters butchered game merely for the pelts, leaving the carcasses to rot.

Louie had tried to put a stop to Noah when he first moved into the region. Upon finding the traces of a rude camp with a cheap sheet metal stove in what he maintained was HIS province, Old Louie declared to the community of Coreys, “Sacre bleu! Louie will put an ax to who ever built ’is wigwam in my territory.”

It might even have been one of Noah John Rondeau’s early shelters before he settled at the Big Dam camp at the far end of the Cold River Tote Trail. Ted’s repertoire of stories included interesting yet vague recollections of a Lake Placid guide called “Old Tom” who was reported to carry “an overload of booze under his belt;” a Long Lake trapper referred to only as McCarthy who “got up the [Cold] river quite a ways; a lumberman known as Pelcher; an unusual woodsman Tupper Lake folks referred to as Louie, not to be confused with “French” Louis Seymour, who had a “fur nest” staked out in the Seward Mountain territory a safe distance from Rondeau’s range; and Noah, whose territory fanned out from Peek-a-boo Mountain to Blueberry Pond to the central portion of Cold River. I had heard other stories about “Meestaire Pelcher” and Louie. Pelcher was reported to have had a logging camp in the Cold River wilderness. Early trappers had reported they’d seen a rough board nailed on a sapling along a woods road that pointed in heavy pencil marks the direction to “Pelcher’s Camp.”

Louie had tried to put a stop to Noah when he first moved into the region. Upon finding the traces of a rude camp with a cheap sheet metal stove in what he maintained was HIS province, Old Louie declared to the community of Coreys, “Sacre bleu! Louie will put an ax to who ever built ’is wigwam in my territory.” That had been years ago. Since then the men had met, developed a mutual respect, and stayed out of each other’s way.

Adirondack Hermit Noah John Rondeau

Courtesy of Neal Burdick,

Adirondack editor and writer

“I saw Noah [John Rondeau] only once, I believe. It was when he was at the North Pole, and I was so dumbstruck I couldn’t think what to say. I had so many things I wanted to ask him about that I got tongue-tied and just stood there, staring at him. I think that annoyed him, so he said something like ‘You don’t want to talk to me,’ and that scared me so I took off. Blotched my only chance, as it turned out.”

Madeline Dodge and the Hermit

Madeline Dodge said, “Noah had a humorous way of saying come to his mountains on vacation and avoid the highway carnage.”

The Hermit and Us – Our Adirondack Adventures with Noah John Rondeau

Madeline Dodge and the Hermit

An excerpt from “The Hermit and Us”, Starting on page 130

Madeline Dodge said, “Noah had a humorous way of saying come to his mountains on vacation and avoid the highway carnage.”

Noah: “It doesn’t take 400 dead people to celebrate a holiday in here.”

Madeline: He was a gentleman of the first order; he could hold his own with anyone — king, queen or president. The first time I hiked in I hadn’t the faintest idea of what to expect but I had made up my mind. After walking fourteen miles I was going to say, “Move over kid, I’m going to stay” if there was any opposition to his having company in camp.

Madeline Dodge’s voice was one of Noah friends I always recalled when used to bathe in the deep pool that made a great swimming hole in the wild river on the downside of the remains of the log dam. When I described the once deep washbowl and how very cold the water felt brought eighty-eight year-old Madeline’s wonderful hermit memories to the forefront. She ac-knowledged that the cold I had felt was cold, but assured me it could not have been as cold as what she had experienced back in the 1940s. Madeline stressed it was really COLD!

Madeline Dodge was an early 20th-century mountain climber and mem-ber of the Adirondack Mountain Club. Over the years she dropped by to visit with Rondeau at his digs. Many years later, after he left the woods and resettled in Wilmington, New York, Noah made her home a stopover. They both believed in economy. Both reused coffee grounds and tea leaves. When Noah brought a can of tobacco along and pulled his pipe from his pocket, Madeline wasn’t opposed to filling her crusty old briar pipe right along with her house guest. With both sitting in rockers by the kitchen range, Noah would lean down to the wood box, open the door, light the end of a splinter of soft wood from the hot coals and turn the burning end to ignite their tobacco. Silently both then drew several deep puffs, savoring the aroma of the flavored tobacco. A smoke. A nip. They enjoyed their necessary vices.

In time Madeline talked with me about her friendship with Noah and how he coaxed her into the water the first time she met him.

Madeline: He was a gentleman of the first order; he could hold his own with anyone—king, queen or president. The first time I hiked in I hadn’t the faintest idea of what to expect but I had made up my mind. After walking fourteen miles I was going to say, “Move over kid, I’m going to stay” if there was any opposition to his having company in camp.

Courtesy of Madeline Dodge

Background photo: April 10, 1949. Madeline Dodge and Noah outside her Village of Wilmington home.

Helen’s First Trek to Cold River Hill

My first trip into Noah John’s [Cold River Hill] hermitage came following our successful assault of the four summits in the Seward Range.

The Hermit and Us – Our Adirondack Adventures with Noah John Rondeau

Helen’s First Trek to Cold River Hill

An excerpt from “The Hermit and Us”, Starting on page 115

Several of Helen’s letters recall the unlikely first meeting between the Colyer girls, their hiking companion and friend Ruth Prince, and Rondeau. It all began on a backpacking trip in the Adirondacks. Mary, “Ruthie” Prince, Bess Little, and Helen had climbed Seymour, Seward, Donaldson, and Emmons, the four high peaks in the Seward Mountain Range in May 1942. The cast of characters assembled at the hermitage on June 20th for an earnest assault on Couchsachraga Peak. The mustering was a mind-tingling, never-to-be-forgotten event for the women, one they often talked about through the years that followed.

I’ll let Helen tell their story.

The hermitage was a good eight miles away. We shouldn’t have left her alone in the woods, but we were young and didn’t give any thought to any possible danger.

My first trip into Noah John’s hermitage came following our successful assault of the four summits in the Seward Range. Bess hurt her ankle bushwhacking down the steep, often rocky descent off Seward Peak. She never uttered a word of pain nor mentioned the injury until we arrived back at Ward Brook lean-to, site of our temporary encampment.

We had planned to go to Noah John’s the next day. Bess persuaded us to leave her alone at the open camp. She was disappointed she had lost her footing and had injured her ankle. The swelling was pronounced. She was realistic. Rest was needed. She wouldn’t be able to hike out to the trailhead in her condition, so her persuasiveness for us to continue with our plan made sense. In fact, Bess insisted we carry on with the original plan of climbing Couchsachraga. She had a Readers Digest to idle the hours away. Now that I think of it, we should have stayed with her. The hermitage was a good eight miles away. We shouldn’t have left her alone in the woods, but we were young and didn’t give any thought to any possible danger. We were comfortable in the woods.

Noah's wigwams

Courtesy of Edward J. Fox

Noah’s bailwick of wigwams was a refuge for Helen, Mary and Ruthie.

I have no idea the exact time of day we arrived at the hermitage. Noah acted tickled pink at hearing the name Colyer. He told us he once helped our father with a deer near Calkins Brook many years earlier. [The hermit] gave us the ‘grand tour’ of his so-called ‘city.’ He showed us his wigwams, and the gardens where he grew potatoes, carrots, sweet peas, pansies and foxgloves. The ‘Beauty Parlor’ stood ready for customers. The ‘Town Hall’ cabin in which Noah lived was small. His bed was on one side. There was a bookshelf over the bed. It held Pilgrim’s Progress, the Bible, a book on astronomy and another book. He had no table or chair. He told us that in winter he sat on the bed to cook. He ate from the stove so that he’d have hot food. All of his wood was pre-notched and piled teepee style so that he could get it when the snow was deep.

The teepee-type buildings, or ‘wigwams’ as he also called the hollow interior cone-shaped stacks of poles he prepared for future firewood, had names. The number of them varied from three to five. There were so many poles leaning together they were almost rainproof. The Trap Wigwam housed, as you might have guessed, steel traps. They hung from rings that were held by nails. He said it was used for sleeping quarters when he had an overflow crowd of guests. Mrs. Rondeau’s Kitchenette was another wigwam. It had a fire pit inside. The inside back of the wigwam was piled with stones and a stone-lined hearth. He cooked in there when it rained or whenever the weather was too cold to be out of doors. His kettles were suspended over the pit by chains that were attached far above where the poles interlocked. There were buckets, empty Beechnut coffee cans, a big pan for dishwashing, a small table, and other things inside.

Courtesy Helen C. Menz

Background picture – Foreground: Helen Colyer; Lt. to Rt.; Mary Colyer, “Ruthie” Prince and Noah. Couchsachraga Peak, 1942. Noah wrote in a letter to Mary dated April 8, 1943: “…the four in the picture are not escaped Russian Refugees as You suppose… I’ll let you in on it a bit, the way they got to the Mountain Top was eating bread and Candy and drinking Lemonade…” [protected from insects with a] “diffused odor of Happy-Medium-Blend-of Kerosene, Citronella and Pine-Tar. It was captivating beyond all powers of resistance.”

Fredric C. Reeves: My Best Days in the Adirondacks

The Hermit and Us – Our Adirondack Adventures with Noah John Rondeau

Fredric C. Reeves:

My Best Days in the Adirondacks

An excerpt from “The Hermit and Us”, Starting on page 46

Fredric C. Reeves, all 5-foot-3 inches and 149 pounds of him, was a 90-year-old former Adirondack guide, tanned, trim and from the first words he wrote, brimming with enthusiasm and rolling with reflections.

“This is like going back down memory lane!” he declared. “For a minute, I had to stop and think of all the good times that I have had in and about the Cold River country. It has been years since I was in that country. So! I am going to start with the trail beginning near the gate at Ampersand Park.”

It was March 20, 1991, and Fredric’s nephew, Peter Reeves Sperry of Doylestown, Pennsylvania, had sent me a superb photograph of Rondeau’s deserted shacks on Cold River Hill. He pointed out, “I took this when my uncle and I were on a pack trip through the Cold River region shortly after the woods were opened [in 1953].”

Peter’s photo offering was the finest image I had collected of Cold River City after its heyday. Uninhabited, vacant, and desolate, the campsite still held some reminders of the former owner. “I saw evidence of bow and arrow making in one of his shacks,” Peter wrote, “and a pamphlet about archery lying on a table…” He suggested I contact his uncle in Fort Pierce, Florida: He has wonderful recollections of and personal anecdotes about Rondeau…”

Peter was right on the button. His uncle had much to say. His description tugged at the back of my mind.

“I lived at Coreys for a short time and that is when I met Rondeau. He

was not a very colorful person then…

“The first time that I met Rondeau was about 1922. I was staying at the Forester Hotel. The Forester was run by Mrs. Fred Wood and then her son operated it for a number of years. It’s since been sold and is now called the Cold River Ranch, Inc. I recall Rondeau had some kind of connection with the hotel. He probably did some infrequent guiding for certain guests.

“Rondeau lived in a house there at Coreys. He didn’t own it. A summer resident let him stay there during the off season, probably in trade for some caretaking chores. I was in his house a few times.

“This is like going back down memory lane!” he declared. “For a minute, I had to stop and think of all the good times that I have had in and about the Cold River country …”

“I will always remember the box stove with the chair in front of the open stove door. Rondeau wasn’t very careful. He used the chair to prop up sledlengthlogs that got fed into the firebox. It was very dangerous.

“Rondeau never believed in cutting wood—preferring instead to burn it sled length. Well, one day he went to Saranac Lake and when he returned home his house was all in ashes. He said that he lost everything—claimed that he had over a thousand dollars in furs and the same amount in cash. I remember it clearly.

“Rondeau had no place to go but the woods. He foraged the best he could. He also got hand-outs from the lumber camps. He was great friends of the Hathaway and Petty families. He used to stay with the Hathaways every Christmas. I think Bill and Clarence Petty really took a shine to him.

“[After the fire] I didn’t see Rondeau for a long time. I remember one time after he had established himself at his city, I was fishing back at Cold River. I decided to stop in to Rondeau’s. When I arrived, he was sitting there in his rocker looking over Cold River and admiring the view of Santanoni…Rondeau kiddingly asked, ‘Do you want to buy a mountain, Fredric? Santanoni is for sale.’ Later I remember asking him just how he happened to settle at the Big Dam and this is what he told me.

An Outlaw Camp

[Your outlaw camp] places someone in a remote area where they could be watchful for fires (i.e. lightning, carelesshunters and fishermen). It might also save a lost hunter’s life.

The Hermit and Us – Our Adirondack Adventures with Noah John Rondeau

An Outlaw Camp

An excerpt from “The Hermit and Us”, Starting on page 32

Three quarters of the way on the Northville-Placid Trailfrom Averyville Road south southwest to Duck Hole, one passes through Paint Bed Notch before reaching an unnamed mountain with a summit elevation of 3694 feet west of the footpath. Moose Creek passes by its base within a short distance. I know this rise as Bear Trap Mountain. The crag has borne its name since.

Smith always referred to the mass as Bear Trap Mountain because a friend of a friend, during one of his benders, left an illegal steel-jawed trap up there somewhere. Positive the bear trap was abandoned with its big jaws sprung open and armed to go off, everyone agreed it would be safer to stay off the mountain. In 1937, Richard’s buddies Phil and Vince erected an unlawful cabin on state property from spruce logs and building materials scavenged from the scrap pile left behind after the Civilian Conservation Corps side camp was demolished.

[Your outlaw camp] places someone in a remote area where they could be watchful for fires … It might also save a lost hunter’s life.

Phil and Vince, while serving in that CCC side camp, metNoah John Rondeau, the region’s most fascinating facsimile of a hermit. His encampment at Big Dam a few miles downriver was a hangout for a number of the CCC enrollees on weekends. Their visits were quite beneficial to Noah’s larder, because his visitors brought him surplus food from the mess kitchen. Phil and Vince were outdoorsmen, loved life in the woods, and got along well with Noah.

Richard Smith bow demostration

Courtesy of Dr. Adolph G. Dittmar, Jr.

Lt. to Rt. Bertha Irwin, Mary Dittmar, Noah and Madeline Dodge. 1948 “I remember Noah went fishing long before we woke up. He caught some beautiful trout and prepared a breakfast fit for royalty.” — Bertha N. Irwin.

Once the Corps’ main project of rebuilding the dam at Duck Hole and upgrading the old government trail-lumber camp tote path into a fire control road along Ward Brook for motorized vehicles was completed, the government work camp was torn down, and Richard Smith took over the cabin in 1940 when Phil and Vince joined the Air Force.

It was an illegal structure, an outlaw camp, and eventually the game protector’s path brought him to the cabin. The note the enforcer placed on the table left no doubt about his feelings. It was clear and to the point: “Your camp is illegal but I see it being a benefit. It places someone in a remote area where they could be watchful for fires (i.e. lightning, careless hunters and fishermen). It might also save a lost hunter’s life. It is

so well hidden, it hurts nothing so leave it for now.”

Smith held the golden age of his life was the time 1934–1949, “a time in which an extraordinary man took me into his woodland camp and became my lifelong friend,” he related. He was referring to Noah John Rondeau the Hermit of Cold River Flow, and this is the story of how they met.

The Indian Hermit

The Hermit and Us – Our Adirondack Adventures with Noah John Rondeau

The Indian Hermit

An excerpt from “The Hermit and Us”, Starting on page 18

Tony liked hanging around the local barbershop on Greenwood Street. The older men were always talking about trapping, hunting, and fishing. Tony was particularly taken with tales of the so-called “Indian,” a former Lake Placid barber-turned-hermit. The following witticism was a favorite story that was often told. He said he never knew if it was really a true tale:

The so-called Indian hermit was observed coming toward his old barber shop one day. The owner of the shop said, “Watch this,” to the patrons and dropped a single penny in the floor near the doorway. The “Indian” bent over in the entrance and picked up the copperhead. Of course, he dropped it quickly in his pocket as the gang in the shop stifled their laughter. The barber made an excuse to speak. “Oh that old Indian head. It’s been there all day. What’s the use of bending to pick up an old penny?” The man replied, “Oh no, it just so happens that ninety-nine more of them make a dollar.” Now who is the fool?

The man replied, “Oh no, it just so happens that ninety-nine more of them make a dollar.” Now who is the fool?

For Tony, whether or not one had made a contribution to the world would become evident come Judgment Day. He believed we should help one another and try not to intentionally hurt anybody. Tony wasn’t amused by the prank played on the “Indian.” Rather, he admired the man’s logic.That summer of 1934, Richard and Tony hatched a plan to put together a major trek into the deep Adirondack forest. Tony declared they should seek out the Indian-hermit who years earlier had gone off to live alone in the wilds around Cold River. They imagined themselves walking through the forest with this woodsman, bows and arrows in hand. The very idea that this reclusive fellow might still be alive and that they just might be able to muster the competence to locate him appealed to their adventurous, youthful natures.

Richard Smith bow demostration

Richard Smith demonstrating to Noah his skill with a bow. 1934.

Photograph by Tony Okie.

Courtesy of Richard J. Smith

They agreed that first Tony should learn to swim in case a river crossing was necessary. Several days later, they set out in the early light of morning to find the bow-hunting recluse. They brought along the bows and arrows they had put together from blueprints and directions found in Saxon Pope’s book, Hunting with the Bow and Arrow. “With our bows, my father’s hand-me-down .30-.30 Marlin, candy bars, dried fruit and nuts, oatmeal, sandwiches, clothing, blankets,” Richard recalled, they began their journey toward Four Corners—a short distance beyond Lake Placid’s railroad station and their homes. From that junction they hiked alone down a dirt road until they reached the Northville Placid Trail leading to Wanika Falls and the great forest beyond. The Sawtooth Mountains loomed in the distance. Duck Hole and the Cold River were even farther away.

No one they talked to seemed to have a clear idea where along the river the hermit lived, but the lack of solid information didn’t deter them. Tony had secured a rough hand-drawn map. His barber knew of the Indian-behaving

hermit and was somewhat familiar with the old Cold River logging path. His suggestion was that the hermit was most likely living somewhere off that tote road in the vicinity of the old dam and lumber camp at the impoundment.

The hike to the river’s edge took most of the day as they lollygagged along, shot arrows and stopped to eat their chocolate and raisins. Miles later, the pair arrived at a virgin stand of hardwoods where an aged log lean-to stood on the north bank of Cold River. At the inception of their journey, they had noble ideas of subsisting from wild foods taken off the land, so Richard found it comical that they devoured with no hesitancy a can of sardines and some dried-out “mice-nibbled doughnuts left on a shelf in the shelter.” While scouting around the open-faced structure, they saw the remainder of a huge head of a trout on a crude plank table.